My trip to VIA's The Canadian: Ottawa to Toronto in business class

 If you follow my social media channels, you'll know I just spent five days taking VIA Rail's iconic "The Canadian" train, from Toronto to Vancouver. I posted short recap videos along the way (day five will go up tomorrow) and I'll also be posting a longer video for each day of the journey.

I'm aiming to post these once a week, every Monday, with my thoughts on the journey and the travel that day. This week, here's my trip to the train -- a business class trip on VIA's "corridor" service from Ottawa to Toronto. 

It's a trip I've done many times, and helped me earn enough VIA Preference points to do my trip on The Canadian at no cost, entirely on points. 

A few thoughts on VIAs business service in the corridor. The seats are comfortable, and the single seats are great for solo travelers. I like the lounges, but some light snacks would be nice. The ticket includes a meal and open bar; the bar opens at 11 AM so book your trip accordingly to get full value for money. There are usually three entrée choices but in limited numbers so you may not get your choice. I always go for the fish, it's consistently good and easier to heat properly than, say, beef.

Speaking of value for money, VIA has been nickel and diming it in business recently. First world problems, but if I'm paying a premium I have expectations. They cut the size of the cups in half so they can get away with serving you less. Even for water, it's a little cup like on an airplane when it used to be twice the size. And as you'll see in the video, they won't give you a full can of pop anymore. They say it's because "there's been too many accidents" but spills are way more common with the glasses and they will still sell you a can in coach.

So while I like VIA Rail's premium product in the corridor, their short-sighted cost-cutting is devaluing the product and making it less worth the buy-up over economy class. And the fact they still don't have advance seat selection and meal ordering (other than dietary/allergy/religious needs) is silly.

Stay tuned for more videos weekly as I review the food, the service and the sites on The Canadian.

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Eating on the rails: Three trains, three lunches with VIA Rail

I took the train down to Scarborough a few weeks back in business, which is really the best way to travel by train. But pro-tip: the bar car usually opens around 11AM so schedule your trip accordingly. After all, you don’t want to pay a premium for just an omelette – and they hardly ever have ketchup.

So I planned my trip accordingly to be able to enjoy a few enroute rum and diets and, as it worked out, I ended up having to change trains in Kingston with an hour layover. Naturally, my question going in was: would I get lunch on each train. The answer? Oh, yes indeed.

On boarding, the attendant asked me if I wanted lunch early. Oh do I, good sir? With first choice of the menu options I went for the baked hake, asparagus, cherry tomatoes, a Greek salad, a bonus extra bread roll, and apple cake. And, of course, a rum and diet.

I always say you can’t go wrong with the fish on VIA Rail. And this fish didn’t disappoint. It was cooked perfectly with a nice cream sauce. But even the asparagus was cooked correctly. The Greek salad was fresh. And the apple cake had actual apple (you should try it with your apple fritters, Tim Hortons). I can honestly say this is the best train lunch I have had in my memory. I demolished everything but the olives.

After a layover and a diet coke in the Kingston VIA lounge, it was on to my next train to continue my journey to Guildwood. This train was coming from Montreal and offered a different menu, but there were few choices left for the late boarders.

The couple behind me got the last two cold salmon plates, which would have been my choice. Instead I was left with the beef bourguignon with mashed potatoes, another Greek salad, bread roll, and a cookie. I usually avoid the beef on planes and trains as it’s very easy to overcook. While it wasn’t my first choice it wasn’t bad – warm and hearty for a fall day. The cookie was stale, but the salad was fresh.

And talk about a healthy pour on my rum and diet…

For my train back to Ottawa at the end of the trip I had no connections, so just one lunch. It was the same menu as my first train and while I briefly considered getting the fish again, I opted instead for the cold chicken plate on spinach and a quinoa salad. The Greek salad was back again, as was the apple cake. Red wine chaser.

The chicken was good, the taziki could have used more pop, the quinoa salad was enjoyable. Apple pie was just as good as the first time, very cinnamony. I like Greek salad but they cold mix it up a bit.

All in all, some enjoyable train lunches. The apple cake is a keeper, way better than the usual cookies.

But please, VIA, bring back the meal pre-order option.

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Eating OFF the Hill: Days Four, Five and Six in Quebec City

One cannot eat like a culinary King all the time -- at least not on my salary. So the second half of my trip to Quebec City featured less of the fancy meals. But there are still a few meals worth sharing.

I actually had plans to get back on track for lunch on Friday with the tourtiere at La La Cuisine, but after trekking down there I was turned away as apparently they closed at 2:00 PM and I had arrived at 1:40 PM.

Thankfully, there was a random Chinese place a few doors down that also closed at 2:00 PM but was still willing to offer me food in exchange for money.

Reasturant La Petit Dana

Normally I wouldn't cover random Chinese lunch, but customer service points to them after the bad experience at their neighbours. I ordered the lunch special, General Tao chicken with a chicken noodle soup, Chinese style.

It was soup, It was fine. It was hot. There were noodles. Also, another Diet Pepsi. Any time I saw a Diet Coke in Quebec, it was like a moment of wonder.

General Tao chicken. It was fine. It was good. Didn't taste pre-made, though of course it was. Chicken was crispy. There were the expected vegetables Filled me up for the walk down to the Museum of Civilization, aka random stuff from someone's garage.

Dinner that night was Chez Ashton again before going to a baseball game. No picture. Had a cheeseburger with sauteed peppers and onions this time; that was different. And a poutine with ground beef. Was enjoyable.

Saturday was a write-off, culinary-wise. Skipped breakfast, and hopped the bus up to Montmorency Falls -- swarming with tourists. Taller than Niagara Falls I'm told, but not as wide. There was a cool gastro food truck I wanted to try, but they were cash-only and I was cashless. So it was MacDonald's before getting the bus back down to the city and a torrential downpour chased me back to my AirBnB instead of more excursions.

I did order some St. Hubert delivery that evening though. No picture, but it was delicious and meaty. Sugar pie for desert to keep it authentic.

Sunday, and I had a half-day before catching the train home, and I was determined to do my last meal right. Brunch at Bugel Fabrique, recommended from Anthony Bourdain's visit to Quebec.

Bugel Fabrique

It's outside the main touristy district, a block back from Rene Levesque, although some did make the trek, along with many locals. I got there during prime brunching hours, so there was about a 20 minute wait, but when I was done the line had cleared.

It's a small, homey place with a small patio. Menu is very much like Kettleman's in Ottawa, and so are the bagels -- Montreal style. I had read they sweetened the bagels with local honey, but I didn't taste a difference.

I ordered a toasted sesame bagel with goat cheese and a side of fruit -- I ended up with swiss cheese instead. Had to flag them down after it arrived to remind them of the orange juice I'd ordered. As for the cheese, I thought, maybe this is how goat cheese melts? I confirmed that, of course not, when I got the cheque. So service was haphazard. And that was not $2.95 worth of fruit I paid extra for. I understand they've got to maintain their margins, but jeez.

It was a good bagel and a fine brunch spot, but no better than Kettleman's and weak on service, although friendly enough.

Train cold plate

With a 3:00 PM departure from Quebec City -- and the smallest Via business lounge I've seen since Dorval -- they served a cold plate between Quebec and Montreal. Either chicken strips with naan, or a cheese plate. And I was seriously conflicted, as a cheese plate is my usual go-to purchase when in Via economy. but they mentioned pickles and olives as a key part of this particular cheese plate -- and I dislike both of those. So, the chicken it was.

This one was an interesting mix of two cuisines: Greek and Indian.Little naans, Indian. Chicken strips with a curry sauce, Indian. Chick peas in tomato sauce, half-Indian? Diced tomatoes and cucumbers, Greek. Tzatziki sauce, Greek. Fusion, I guess? I added taziki and veggies to my naan before adding the chicken for a little flat bread. It was OK. Was excited when I saw the desert as I thought it was a blondie. But no, banana bread. Which would feel like a cheated desert, but I've made it and know it has a stupid amount of sugar.

Train dinner

With Montreal receding behind us, after some weird maneuvering to get us facing the right way, it was time for dinner. Butternut squash ravioli, Korean beef, or lemon butter cod. My choice was easy -- the cod it was. As I've said before, the fish is always a safe choice on Via.

The cod could have been cooked a smidge less, and while I couldn't make out the lemon, the butter was subtle and added to a tasty fish, with quinoa and roasted veggies. Some brie and Swiss with grapes gave me the cheese I missed out on earlier, and the chocolate pudding was delish. A thoroughly enjoyable train meal.

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Eating OFF the Hill: Day One in Quebec City

I'm off to Quebec City until Sunday for my summer break, deciding to spend my vacation dollars North of the border for the foreseeable future -- as much as I would have enjoyed another baseball road trip. So, having crossed Halifax off the bucket list at biennial this spring, my first visit to Quebec City seemed a logical choice. And armed by many recommendations from mes amis, there will be food blogging.

Day one on Tuesday was six hours on the train, so other than dinner it was really a train food day, with breakfast and lunch in VIA One, before dropping my bags at my AirBNB and heading back to the old city for a real meal.

Train breakfast

I wasn't expecting breakfast  as it was a 10:15 AM departure on VIA, so outside the usual breakfasting hours. Prime brunch hours I suppose, though it is Tuesday. Still, just East of Ottawa they came around with the meal cart, offering an omelette or cereal, and as I hadn't eaten breakfast I decided to partake.

Now, those of you paying close attention at home know I'm not a big egg guy. Still, I wasn't feeling the cereal, and while I won't go out and pay separately for eggs, there is one scenario where, faced with limited choice, I will eat them. It should be an omelette with other stuff in it, and it should be smothered in copious amounts of ketchup. So, conditional on VIA having ketchup (which they did), that was my choice.

It needed more stuff in it though. There *may* have been cheese. But I saw no green peppers, or mushrooms, or what not and what have you. I ate it grudgingly, if only to get to the nondescript sausage patty underneath. The baked beans were a nice touch, and the fingerling potatoes a standout.

Train lunch

After a 30 minute layover in Gare de Montreal, where ongoing passengers were to stay on the train (I was told there was no time to go for smoked meat) we backed-up halfway to the airport, and then continued East again, deeper into Quebec. And soon, it was time for lunch.

They had begun drinks at the opposite end of the car from me so I was resigned to them being out of anything decent when they got to me (when I say resigned, I mean seething with first world, privilege unchecked pre-anger), but after serving the VIPs they began on my end, and the world was my oyster: chicken, beef or pasta.

Now, beef is usually overcooked in these scenarios so I tend to avoid it. And pasta, as I've said, feels too simple and cheap, something I could make at home. And did last night, actually. So chicken it was.

I was somewhat disappointed that I hadn't realized or been told it was actually a cold chicken salad, so that was a shock. Still, one I overcame and was fine with in the end. I took my roll and the chicken breast, and some of the salad and made a little sandwich. The salad could have used some work though. Other than two pieces of cucumber and two cherry tomatoes, and a few stray weeds, it was basically a large pile of carrot. And couscous as the side. Two salads; my bowl runneth over.

The now standard VIA vegan brownie, and it occurred to me now there was no after-lunch chocolate, with was a downgrade a few years ago from the post-meal truffles they used to serve. It's also often a challenge now to get drink refills after the meal service. But enough kvetching.

Café du Monde

Having found and settled into my AirBNB, I scoured my crowd sourced list of recommended local dining establishments and decided to head to Café du Monde. Located on the waterfront in the cruise ship terminal it should not be confused with the New Orleans restaurant of the same name, famous for its beignets. No beignets here.

It was busy but I didn't need to wait, and as I sipped a glass of Quebec red I decided on the table d'hote, starting with the French Onion soup. Because when in Quebec...

I don't think I've had French Onion soup since I was a kid. My Dad used to make it, so that would have to have been at least 15 or more years ago. I recall my sister and I used to just eat the cheese off the top, and he would get mad and make us at least make an effort at eating the rest. I also remember we had these cool ceramic french onion soup bowls with the handles we bought in France, which is perhaps why he made it regularly.

If Dad was watching he'd be happy to know I finished the whole thing this time. Plenty of onion, flavourful broth, and a cheese stronger than I'd usually have on its own, but delicious in this setting balanced off by the broth. And I rationed the cheese throughout the soup. Tasty.

On to the main course: duck confit and mushroom open ravioli. Now, I don't often have duck as I'm more of a white meat guy, but I'm expanding my culinary horizons this week and this was tasty.

The duck was very tasty, and plentiful, and the jus quite delish. Could have used more mushrooms would be my primary note. And I've never had this open ravioli thing before. It certainly allowed for more meat, but was a challenge to cut.

Because it was a three-course deal, I had a choice of deserts: some chocolate dot thing, or Crème brûlée. And again, when in Quebec...

I like Crème brûlée but I'm not a connoisseur, so when I ate my first spoonful and found it a bit cool/cold inside, I was unsure if this was how it was supposed to be or not. A quick Google  told me cool inside with a warm crisp top describes the ideal crème brûlée. So I carried on, and enjoyed.

Don't have Wednesday planned yet. But I know it will begin with fresh croissants.

Bon soir.

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